Our adventures in Australia

Our adventures in Australia

Wednesday, 22 April 2026

Hobart, Port Arthur and Maria Island

 


Ian's 70th was fast approaching when we heard the news that Jetstar were introducing direct flights from Newcastle to Hobart. We decided this was an opportunity too good to miss so booked our flights ($250 each return) and hired a motorhome for a two week celebratory trip. I hesitate to use the word holiday because when you are retired, every day is pretty much a holiday. 

We were arriving early evening so opted to stay in an hotel in Hobart then pick up the motorhome the following day. The Skybus took us into the centre of the city but not quite as close to the Allurity Hotel as we had hoped, leaving us with a bit of a walk. The motorhome hire people had suggested bringing soft bags as they would be easier to stash in the van, which was a very good tip but they were not as easy to troop around with as a nice wheelie suitcase. 


 The Allurity was quite expensive and a bit ordinary but in a good location and the pubs all around were jumping as we had arrived on St.Patricks Day. The Matildas were playing in the Asian Cup semi final at 9pm and, as luck would have it, the RSL Sports Bar was just around the corner from our hotel! Not quite as luckily, it was closing at 9pm so we went back and watched the match in our room. 

Next morning saw us set off in great excitement to pick up our home for the next two weeks. Ian and I have often debated whether we would prefer a motorhome to our caravan so this was a good opportunity to find out. The booking was with Cruisin Campers and we found them to be extremely helpful and easy to deal with and after a run through of how everything worked we set off to Hobart Showground, $50 with power. The stay at the showground was unnecessary with hindsight but we were a bit cautious and didn't want to drive too far before we had got the hang of everything. We needn't have worried, the van was easy to drive, everything was clearly labelled and we had been furnished with an idiot proof guide to all the controls.


 The bus into the centre of Hobart stopped outside the showground gates and took us to Mawson Place which was beautiful. Lovely old buildings around the dock where the cruise liners come in and the tugs are berthed. Many of the boats moored were flying Danish flags because King Frederick and Queen Mary of Denmark were arriving the next day for a visit. Australians, particularly Tasmanians, are very proud of Mary as she is one of their own. Unlike Frederick and Mary we had to find our own dinner so went to one of the string of fish and chip shops on the dockside to fill up with Tassie scallops. 

Hobart is a very attractive city built on the hills around the river Derwent where a huge number of the houses have water views. I was surprised how dry it was but apparently Hobart has the least rainfall of all the capital cities in Australia (some say Adelaide but there is not much in it). We quickly decided that we could not do justice to the city and complete the travelling around we were hoping to do, so agreed to return for a city visit in the future.


 There was a huge amount of construction work going on at the showground and it was only ok, although I did like the little individual shower and toilet room arrangement. The amenities were very clean and there were not many camping options around Hobart so it was good enough. 
We were happy to set off the next day to Port Arthur where we headed for the NRMA caravan park, there were rules about not using the van on unmade roads which meant the free camps in that area were out. The van also did not have the same level of solar and battery set up as our caravan so we knew we needed to use caravan parks more than we usually would. This park was at Garden Point on the edge of the Stewarts Bay State Reserve and it was one of the best I have ever experienced. Built on a hill, the sites were all flat but with nice views nestled amongst the woodland. The amenities were excellent, there was a fabulous camp kitchen with pizza oven, amazing wildlife and unbeatable stargazing all for $40 with power for NRMA members. There are 12 bird species endemic to Tasmania and 3 of them wandered past while I was enjoying my first cup of tea! There was a gorgeous walk from the campsite to Port Arthur Historic Site and as evening fell Long Nosed Poteroos started to emerge and we wandered along astonished at how pretty Tasmania seemed to be so far. 


 The following morning we drove to the Historic Site, I'm glad we did because the day involved a lot of walking and to walk there and back on top would have been a bit of a chore. We chose to splash out on the Premium Tour of the Historic Site so paid $41 entry plus $30 tour each, it was well worth it. When the guide arrived looking breathless and using a walking stick I was not sure how the tour would go but she set off at a brisk pace and kept us all in order as she showed us around some of the more significant buildings. There are so many bits to look at that, attempted without a guide, the visit could involve much wandering about and missing things. As it was we covered a sensible route taking in a church, cell blocks, punishment block and beautiful gardens. The tour included a boat trip at the end around the Island of the Dead and the island where boys were imprisoned and given a rudimentary education to set them up ready for when they would be released. 

The whole place was very disturbing as it brought home the absolute cruelty of transporting people away from their homes and families and then punishing them again when they arrived. Some inmates who had tried to escape or otherwise played up were kept in complete darkness for up to 30 days at a time, no wonder there was a sanitorium next to the punishment block. These days Australians remember Port Arthur for the 1996 mass shooting and I was pleased to see the memorial to the victims of that infamous event was away from the main thoroughfare and a peaceful spot for quiet reflection.


 Our ticket was valid for two days but we chose not to return for a second visit and instead headed up the East coast. We were topping up with fuel every time we saw some thanks to Donald Trump destroying the world economy and trying to jeopardise our driving holiday. We were not so bothered about the price of fuel, more the possibility of running out, but fortunately Tasmania is small so we didn't get through too much. 

The first place we drove through was Doo Town, so called because someone built a house and named it Doo I? Then everyone copied so everywhere is called Doo....something. Nice little port there and lots of birds, made use of the cafe and pressed on. We had a plan but got sidetracked when a sign appeared for Triabunna because a) we wanted to watch The Matildas in the Asian Cup Final and it looked like a decent sized town with a pub and b) the ferry to Maria Island left from there and seemed like a good idea as a treat for Ian's birthday.


 There was a paddock right by the harbour and opposite the pub where campers could stay for $10 a night unpowered. There were no toilets but the public ones were two minutes walk away and showers for $4 in the laundromat, so we paid in the convenience store for two nights. We checked in both the pubs to see if they were showing the match but they either did not know it was on or said their regulars preferred AFL! The landlord of the pub opposite us relented and said he would put it on in the back room, the national team playing in a major final relegated to the back room, I ask you! 


 I bought our tickets for the ferry the next morning (45 each) and a National Parks Pass ($95) then returned to the pub where, lo and behold, the Matildas were on the big screen in the main room. A family with kids all wearing Matildas shirts had turned up and made everyone feel guilty so we were able to watch the match. They lost but we all had fun. 


 Next morning we walked the two minutes to the harbour for the ferry and were fascinated by a boat moored there covered from top to bottom, front to back in lamps Apparently it was a squid fishing boat, the squid are attracted to the lights. 

 It was a beautiful, smooth crossing and  Maria Island was stunning. We planned to take two of the walks and look around the convict settlement but we saw so much on the Fossil Cliffs walk that it took twice as long as it was supposed to. There were Cape Barren Geese, Chestnut Teals, Yellow Wattlebirds, Tasmanian Native Hens, Yellow Rumped Thornbills and Wombats. No Devils unfortunately but we hadn't expected to spot them, I think they come out when the return ferry leaves and snigger from the dock. One lady said she saw one but we have our doubts. 



 The Penitentiary, shops and houses were really interesting and it is possible to stay on the island overnight and have the full convict experience, without the Cat O' Nine tails of course. The crossing back was lumpier as the wind had got up but it was a wonderful day and we ended it with fish and chips on the harbour at Triabunna for the second night running.