Wineglass Bay, Cataract Gorge, Cradle Mountain

 Tasmania was living up to expectations so far and we left Triabunna full of enthusiasm as we headed for one of the places everyone raves about - Wineglass Bay. The travel distances in Tassie continued to take us by surprise. When we go away on the mainland it is not unusual to drive 5 or 6 hours between stops, whereas here we were mainly driving around one hour for each trip. This day was no exception, just 50 kms north to Swansea. 

The route was lined with fruit farms, mainly apples and cherries which cannot grow in many parts of Australia so the scenery was quite a change for us. We secured a spot at Swansea Caravan Park, $65 powered but right on the beach front, and then set off for another hour long drive to Freycinet National Park to walk to Wineglass Bay. 

 Although only a 3km walk, it was demanding because it was all uphill with 400 steps up through amazing rock formations and beautiful trees. It is a very popular Instagrammable sight to see so was pretty busy. Braver souls than us could take a further 500 steps down to the beach (and back up again) once they had puffed and wheezed their way to the viewing platform but we only saw one person take the plunge. 

I hate to say it but we were a bit disappointed in Wineglass Bay. We are very spoilt with gorgeous bays where we live and all the people trooping up there  made the visit feel like a box ticking exercise. Once back at the start of the trail we saw a lighthouse walk signposted which was wheelchair friendly so we figured it couldn't be too strenuous and it was fabulous! We cheered up enormously when a bend was rounded at the end bringing into view an amazing seascape of rugged cliffs and a splendid little lighthouse. Hardly any people had bothered with this walk, choosing to just stick with the main event, so it was doubly enjoyable.

 Back at the caravan park the weather was a bit grim so we cooked our dinner in the excellent camp kitchen where we got chatting to the most fascinating couple. He was German and she American and they made their living travelling the world recording sounds and selling them to mainly film companies. If, for example, a film maker needs the sound of a particular frog only found in the Amazon Rainforest, they get in touch with this pair who would probably have the very recording in their files. What an amazing life they must have! We went back to the van and watched a movie but couldn't stop noticing sounds of waterfalls, bird calls etc. and wondering if they had been purchased from the recording banks of our new friends. 

After coffee and a visit to the IGA we topped up again with diesel which was now over $3 a litre (thanks Donald). Our route was going to take us inland for the first time so we would be leaving the dry eastern side of the island behind as we headed away from the coast. Our drive took us through Campbell Town, which was extremely ordinary, although it did have a Big Log in recognition of the local tree felling industry, then on to the Georgian town of Evandale. 

 Our free camp was a 15 minute walk outside of town at Honeysuckle Banks which was on a riverbank, no toilets and a 48hour pass must be obtained online. Unfortunately campers were only allowed to stay in the car park because of past poor behaviour, such a shame when a town offers a free camp and people abuse it. We wandered up the hill to the town and it was extraordinary. The buildings were all beautifully presented and the whole town was very special. The Prince of Wales pub allowed parking behind for RVs and an annual penny farthing race had only recently taken place. there was plenty of very pleasant looking accommodation including a converted bakery where guests could sleep in the oven! The Clarendon Arms was a very smart pub with an art exhibition upstairs and there were several galleries, interesting shops and a couple of really good cafes. 

Wet overnight but the sun came out as we drove into Evandale for a final coffee before setting of for Cradle Mountain. We didn't really have a reason to visit Launceston but we were passing so close it seemed rude not to pop in for a quick look. Cataract Gorge seemed to be the place with the best reviews so that was where we went. What a beautiful spot and an amazing facility to have right in the middle of a city. On the River Esk, the gorge has a large visitor centre with a cafe, fabulous gardens, a swimming pool and the babbling river. It also had a couple of things I was not about to sample but Ian did, a suspension bridge which was decidedly wobbly and overhead chair ride.

 After the excellent diversion to Launceston we continued on our way to Cradle Mountain. Our route took us through Sheffield which was a fantastic town with a mural on almost every building and some very nice shops including a brilliantly quirky record store. A shopkeeper asked if we were there for the rowing, we admitted not knowing what she was talking about so she filled us in. The Australian National Rowing Championships were taking place on Lake Barrington, right near where we were planning to stay so we made a mental note to have a look if possible. 

We carried on to Gowrie Park Wilderness Camp, $75 for two nights with power. There was a council site just before it but we needed power again and expected there to be a nice area with trees and wildlife to camp at Gowrie Park, it was called a wilderness camp after all. No such luck, the camping was just on a gravel area that was not even terribly flat and, as we discovered the next morning, not very close to Cradle Mountain either. The amenities were ok, if a bit gritty underfoot and it was an extra $1 for a 5 minute shower (cheeky). The place was surrounded by great views of Mount Roland and others with mist hanging over them and we were aware we had entered the other part of Tasmania which is not dry like the east coast. They call the west coast the wet coast for good reason and the mountains we were amongst in the middle were decidedly damp.

 Cradle Mountain turned out to be 40kms away along winding roads and freezing. We already had our National Parks Pass so all we had to pay was $15 each for the shuttle bus from the visitor centre to the various walks starting points. We chose to go to the Dove Lake Loop, as did everyone else, which was the furthest and highest walk. 

As we set off it started to rain and blow a gale so quickly became clear that it was going to be a truly miserable experience. We admitted defeat and returned, dripping and shivering to the bus stop and caught the shuttle down the mountain a bit to Ronny Creek for the starting point of the Cradle Valley Boardwalk - 2 hours and easy apparently. It was a beautiful walk and we only got wet a few times, because it was lower and through a valley it was not as cold and we were protected a bit from the wind. There were also no people, in the whole two hours I think we encountered four other walkers. The valley was very pretty with mossy trees and tufty grasses but not a single bit of wildlife, not even birds, until we were back on the shuttle bus and a wombat strolled by. 

 It rained all night but we woke to glorious sunshine the following morning. We had noticed lots of very tall, slim teenagers and young adults staying in large groups at our campsite and guessed they must be rowers so asked them where we should go to watch the championships. They told us the racing had to be stopped the previous day because of high winds (tell us about it) and gave us directions to the competition section of the lake, which was actually very close to where we were staying. 

 We had a couple of hours to spare at the beginning of our next journey so went for a look. The event was massive! Hundreds and hundreds of racing boats lined the bank of gorgeous Lake Barrington, there were stalls and grandstands and the car park was packed with team coaches, cars and motorhomes. We paid our $84 (bit steep but it looked exciting) and were just about to step through the entry barrier when a voice over the tannoy announced that racing was suspended for at least an hour because of wind. If the announcement had come one minute later we would have been inside the gate and not entitled to a refund, as it was we got our money back because we had not even made it inside. I don't know how, or even if they managed to catch up on all the cancelled races, the competition is usually held in Penrith but they were trying out a new location. Lake Barrington was certainly a spectacular location for the event but with the complications of shipping all the boats, competitors and equipment to Tasmania as well as the weather, I suspect they might be going back to safe old Penrith next year. 

Hobart, Port Arthur and Maria Island

 

Ian's 70th was fast approaching when we heard the news that Jetstar were introducing direct flights from Newcastle to Hobart. We decided this was an opportunity too good to miss so booked our flights ($250 each return) and hired a motorhome for a two week celebratory trip. I hesitate to use the word holiday because when you are retired, every day is pretty much a holiday. 

We were arriving early evening so opted to stay in an hotel in Hobart then pick up the motorhome the following day. The Skybus took us into the centre of the city but not quite as close to the Allurity Hotel as we had hoped, leaving us with a bit of a walk. The motorhome hire people had suggested bringing soft bags as they would be easier to stash in the van, which was a very good tip but they were not as easy to troop around with as a nice wheelie suitcase. 

 The Allurity was quite expensive and a bit ordinary but in a good location and the pubs all around were jumping as we had arrived on St.Patricks Day. The Matildas were playing in the Asian Cup semi final at 9pm and, as luck would have it, the RSL Sports Bar was just around the corner from our hotel! Not quite as luckily, it was closing at 9pm so we went back and watched the match in our room. 

Next morning saw us set off in great excitement to pick up our home for the next two weeks. Ian and I have often debated whether we would prefer a motorhome to our caravan so this was a good opportunity to find out. The booking was with Cruisin Campers and we found them to be extremely helpful and easy to deal with and after a run through of how everything worked we set off to Hobart Showground, $50 with power. The stay at the showground was unnecessary with hindsight but we were a bit cautious and didn't want to drive too far before we had got the hang of everything. We needn't have worried, the van was easy to drive, everything was clearly labelled and we had been furnished with an idiot proof guide to all the controls.

 The bus into the centre of Hobart stopped outside the showground gates and took us to Mawson Place which was beautiful. Lovely old buildings around the dock where the cruise liners come in and the tugs are berthed. Many of the boats moored were flying Danish flags because King Frederick and Queen Mary of Denmark were arriving the next day for a visit. Australians, particularly Tasmanians, are very proud of Mary as she is one of their own. Unlike Frederick and Mary we had to find our own dinner so went to one of the string of fish and chip shops on the dockside to fill up with Tassie scallops. 

Hobart is a very attractive city built on the hills around the river Derwent where a huge number of the houses have water views. I was surprised how dry it was but apparently Hobart has the least rainfall of all the capital cities in Australia (some say Adelaide but there is not much in it). We quickly decided that we could not do justice to the city and complete the travelling around we were hoping to do, so agreed to return for a city visit in the future.

 There was a huge amount of construction work going on at the showground and it was only ok, although I did like the little individual shower and toilet room arrangement. The amenities were very clean and there were not many camping options around Hobart so it was good enough. 

We were happy to set off the next day to Port Arthur where we headed for the NRMA caravan park, there were rules about not using the van on unmade roads which meant the free camps in that area were out. The van also did not have the same level of solar and battery set up as our caravan so we knew we needed to use caravan parks more than we usually would. This park was at Garden Point on the edge of the Stewarts Bay State Reserve and it was one of the best I have ever experienced. Built on a hill, the sites were all flat but with nice views nestled amongst the woodland. The amenities were excellent, there was a fabulous camp kitchen with pizza oven, amazing wildlife and unbeatable stargazing all for $40 with power for NRMA members. There are 12 bird species endemic to Tasmania and 3 of them wandered past while I was enjoying my first cup of tea! There was a gorgeous walk from the campsite to Port Arthur Historic Site and as evening fell Long Nosed Poteroos started to emerge and we wandered along astonished at how pretty Tasmania seemed to be so far. 

 The following morning we drove to the Historic Site, I'm glad we did because the day involved a lot of walking and to walk there and back on top would have been a bit of a chore. We chose to splash out on the Premium Tour of the Historic Site so paid $41 entry plus $30 tour each, it was well worth it. When the guide arrived looking breathless and using a walking stick I was not sure how the tour would go but she set off at a brisk pace and kept us all in order as she showed us around some of the more significant buildings. There are so many bits to look at that, attempted without a guide, the visit could involve much wandering about and missing things. As it was we covered a sensible route taking in a church, cell blocks, punishment block and beautiful gardens. The tour included a boat trip at the end around the Island of the Dead and the island where boys were imprisoned and given a rudimentary education to set them up ready for when they would be released. 

The whole place was very disturbing as it brought home the absolute cruelty of transporting people away from their homes and families and then punishing them again when they arrived. Some inmates who had tried to escape or otherwise played up were kept in complete darkness for up to 30 days at a time, no wonder there was a sanitorium next to the punishment block. These days Australians remember Port Arthur for the 1996 mass shooting and I was pleased to see the memorial to the victims of that infamous event was away from the main thoroughfare and a peaceful spot for quiet reflection.

 Our ticket was valid for two days but we chose not to return for a second visit and instead headed up the East coast. We were topping up with fuel every time we saw some thanks to Donald Trump destroying the world economy and trying to jeopardise our driving holiday. We were not so bothered about the price of fuel, more the possibility of running out, but fortunately Tasmania is small so we didn't get through too much. 

The first place we drove through was Doo Town, so called because someone built a house and named it Doo I? Then everyone copied so everywhere is called Doo....something. Nice little port there and lots of birds, made use of the cafe and pressed on. We had a plan but got sidetracked when a sign appeared for Triabunna because a) we wanted to watch The Matildas in the Asian Cup Final and it looked like a decent sized town with a pub and b) the ferry to Maria Island left from there and seemed like a good idea as a treat for Ian's birthday.

 There was a paddock right by the harbour and opposite the pub where campers could stay for $10 a night unpowered. There were no toilets but the public ones were two minutes walk away and showers for $4 in the laundromat, so we paid in the convenience store for two nights. We checked in both the pubs to see if they were showing the match but they either did not know it was on or said their regulars preferred AFL! The landlord of the pub opposite us relented and said he would put it on in the back room, the national team playing in a major final relegated to the back room, I ask you! 

 I bought our tickets for the ferry the next morning (45 each) and a National Parks Pass ($95) then returned to the pub where, lo and behold, the Matildas were on the big screen in the main room. A family with kids all wearing Matildas shirts had turned up and made everyone feel guilty so we were able to watch the match. They lost but we all had fun. 

 Next morning we walked the two minutes to the harbour for the ferry and were fascinated by a boat moored there covered from top to bottom, front to back in lamps Apparently it was a squid fishing boat, the squid are attracted to the lights. 

 It was a beautiful, smooth crossing and  Maria Island was stunning. We planned to take two of the walks and look around the convict settlement but we saw so much on the Fossil Cliffs walk that it took twice as long as it was supposed to. There were Cape Barren Geese, Chestnut Teals, Yellow Wattlebirds, Tasmanian Native Hens, Yellow Rumped Thornbills and Wombats. No Devils unfortunately but we hadn't expected to spot them, I think they come out when the return ferry leaves and snigger from the dock. One lady said she saw one but we have our doubts. 

 The Penitentiary, shops and houses were really interesting and it is possible to stay on the island overnight and have the full convict experience, without the Cat O' Nine tails of course. The crossing back was lumpier as the wind had got up but it was a wonderful day and we ended it with fish and chips on the harbour at Triabunna for the second night running. 

Yowah, Bollon, St.George, Yelarbon, Texas

 The wild flowers were amazing on our journey from Quilpie to Yowah, one positive outcome from the recent floods. This was the middle of channel country where the water is expected to flow through in floodways (channels) during the wet season. In some spots the road dipped for a floodway every few hundred metres but they were not up to the job of directing the huge amount of water that tore through the countryside a couple of months previously.The damage was devastating and we passed several teams of Blaze Aid volunteers fixing fences. 

 Clouds started to gather as we drove the two hours to Yowah and it began to rain as soon as we had set up in the big donation camping area. Last year the weather was so wet when we were in Yowah that we were caravan bound for a couple of days so we were hoping to be luckier this time.

 The tiny opal mining town sits on the artesian basin and benefits from hot springs. The camp area is great and has fairly new toilets and showers. This time we decided to park across the road from the amenities, backing on to the hot stream which was an excellent choice for sitting by the van watching birds. 

Yowah is quite well provided for compared to some other outback towns. Apart from anything else, they have constant hot water thanks to a bore driven down over 400m one hundred years ago. After enjoying a long wallow in the artesian spa baths, $5 for a day pass, we reacquainted ourselves with The Nut Cafe and the little grocery store. The whole place was much quieter than last year when we had foolishly managed to be there in the week leading up to Opalfest but there were still a few tourists about. 

 On Wednesday and Saturday nights the Miners Club serves dinner. We did not expect it to be terribly busy but people appeared from nowhere and gathered around the huge outdoor fires. The choice was Fish and Chips or Baked Chicken Diane at $28 a head which was pretty reasonable considering the price and availability of groceries in remote areas. Yowah did not flood in the recent rain event but it was cut off. Food and medicines were helicoptered in and I noticed a sign in the Miners Club asking 'Do you have enough medication if we the flooding reaches us again?' 

 After doing a bit of fossicking and visiting a few opal galleries a very short drive took us to The Bluff on the recommendation of one of the miners. He told us the 360° views really made it possible to imagine looking out over the inland sea in ancient times. He was right, it was an amazing panorama.

 We decided to splash out another $5 each on the spa. There are two pools, one hot and one far too hot. I usually swim around in the less hot one but there were quite a number of other people in it sitting and chatting which meant I had to sit still. Unfortunately they were caravanners telling very dull, one upmanship stories about the challenging roads they had driven just for the hell of it. I was very quickly bored and too hot so escaped back to the caravan. 

A notice at the cafe had detailed the scheduled Flying Doctor Clinics in Yowah and there was one due the following day. When we heard a plane at 8am we jumped in the car and dove out to the airfield to see them unloading. Sadly there was nothing there and the clinic was well underway at the Miners Club by the time we got back. A local told us that, because Yowah is fortunate enough to have Flying Doctor Clinics, their health care is brilliant. They can always get in to see the doctor and specialist appointments are arranged quickly. The plane drops a doctor, dentist, nurses, alcohol counsellor and others but presumably the plane had more important things to do than just sit waiting for us to take some photos. So we had breakfast at the Nut Cafe before packing up and heading off. We will be back, Yowah is one of our favourite stops.

 Four hours of dodging sunbathing lizards along the Adventure Way (it's not much of an adventure, very long and straight although I did get breathalysed) and we reached Bollon and set up camp at Wallam Creek, a beautiful riverside donation camp with showers and toilets within a short walk. It was quite busy as usual but not as packed as last year when campers were all hanging out there before going on to the Outback Music Festival. It was disappointing to discover the pub had burnt down since our last visit and the cafe had closed. Apparently the cafe and pub were owned by the same people and when the cafe lease expired they decided to move the whole operation to the pub which burnt down two months later. So the town now has no pub or cafe, such a shame for locals and visitors alike. 

As usual, pretty much everyone except us was up and away by sparrow's fart the next morning. Some very nice riverside locations had become vacant so we performed a quick pack up and moved to a gorgeous riverbank spot. A couple who run the art gallery in town provide firewood for campers, lead tours and feed the ducks, many of whom are relocated pets. We took some firewood and went to pay at the gallery, which was delightful, mainly indigenous artwork and gifts. The roadhouse sold groceries but was eyewateringly expensive so we made do with what we had and spent a pleasant evening cooking on our camp fire under the stars.

 St.George was our next destination. We had popped into St.George a couple of times in the past, once for a new tyre and another time for an electrical component for the van. We thought St.George was a bit grim having only seen the industrial area so were surprised to read rave reviews for the Riverfront Caravan Park. The town advertises itself as The Inland Fishing Capital of Queensland and we discovered it actually has some very nice bits indeed, especially a riverside park with pubs and shops overlooking it. There is an IGA and Foodworks so we were glad we hadn't bankrupted ourselves in the Bollon Roadhouse and we stocked up and drove back to camp. As we passed the Showground we discovered a week long horsey festival was about to begin featuring a mysterious event called cutting. 

 Our caravan Park was 10km outside of town on the river and a 'park where you like' place which we enjoy. It had not long been taken on by new owners and they were embarking on an ambitious project to build a huge dam for 7 megalitres of water with cabins around the edge. I hope they succeed, it will be wonderful when completed. The young couple who own it lost their home in a fire so decided to take the plunge with a new project, good luck to them.

 The woman in the visitor centre told us about Sandytown River Cruises which run twice a day, 11am-1pm and 4-6pm and are pet friendly, $45, BYO drnks and nibbles, strictly no plastic packaging on board. The boat was basic but comfy enough, the driver provided a commentary and we thoroughly enjoyed it. The wildlife on the river was brilliant, the highlight for me being a tree full of spoonbills and the houses along the river were beautiful. After the 2012 flood which reached 13m the government built a 14m levee to protect the town disguised as a park with excellent bike and walking paths. 

 The next day we went to see what the cutting event was all about. This trip had provided some wonderful free entertainment for us and the cutting was no exception. Cutting refers to a horse and rider isolating one cow from the rest of the herd. I can't say we really understood what made one rider the winner each time but we enjoyed ourselves. Out of a field of ten there was only one female rider and she came second so even better! 

 St.George was cotton country but we very quickly entered grain territory as we sped along the bumpy Barwon Highway towards Texas. We were a bit undecided about where to break the journey and in the end plumped for Yelarbon Showground. The town was very small and didn't look too promising on the way in but the showground was one of the nicest we have come across. $10 unpowered and the spotless amenities were housed in the old railway station buildings. The town had won a Tidy Towns award in the past and it was easy to see why as we walked to the pub for dinner. I had checked the Facebook page to see the menu but could only find posts asking the patrons to stop fighting! It was a well presented place, the landlord and staff we very pleasant but the clientele that night could possibly have been the ones the FB post was aimed at. We downed our pizza before anything kicked off and made it safely back to the van.

 Our wonderful trip was drawing to a close as we were getting close to the New South Wales border on our way to Texas. It was getting colder too. Last year we left Texas for home when snow was forecast but this time we were determined to tick off the things we had missed, namely to visit the Rabbit Processing works and to spend a few days at Goat Rock. We set up at Dumaresq River Crossing, free, no facilities and they ask you to put your receipts for anything spent in the town in a container with your post code written on the back so the council can see the money the town rakes in because of the campers. 

After a coffee in The Swagman's Rest Cafe we noticed the Texas Rabbit Processing Works was only open Tuesday and Thursday, it was dog friendly so we headed there straight away. It was a much more interesting visit than it sounds. At one time rabbit meat exports made more money for Australia than coal! The museum was impressive, some of the videos were a bit gruesome but it was rather a grisly industry. Apart from the rabbit related tour there was a collection donated by a local family, the Wilsons. Mr and Mrs Wilson started collecting historic objects when they wanted to put stories about the past into context for their daughter. Over the years this all got a bit out of hand and they amassed a collection that filled a warehouse. They donated this huge collection of stuff and it was quite good fun to look through.

 Texas is a beautiful town but it was getting very nippy overnight. We phoned Goat Rock to try and book in but were informed there was a wedding there over the weekend and we could not stay until the following week. As with last year, the cold in Texas got the better of us and we headed home. We had a brilliant three months on the road and look forward to doing it all again next winter, with a diesel heater installed.